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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary achievement.